Sam Hutchinson looms over another man, possibly Hugh Dunlop in this photograph from an unidentified historical archive.
When my brothers were old enough to drive it wasn’t uncommon for several of us to pile into a car and head out into the Potholes to fish, swim or hike. We liked swimming in a certain hole in Hayes Creek. A favorite fishing spot was Hutchinson Lake, where red basalt cliffs rimmed the cool greenish waters. Even at that age, my father had told me plenty of stories about the Hutchinson brothers. My imagination placed old Sam Hutchinson on those clifftops, dressed in a black lawman’s cutaway coat and a flat-rimmed hat. Taller than seven feet, he once rode over those hills and lived in a cabin not far from where the lake is found.
Perhaps it was this image that inspired me to wander while my brother fished for those big trout that rarely got caught. I trudged out into the brush north of the lake looking for anything that might have been dropped by old Sam and he rode out one day. I found crushed and rusty tin cans, flaking apart. There were the remains of wire fencing smashed into the earth. Bits of purpled glass sparkled at me through the cheat grass. Then I found a rut. Continue reading
Posted in Archaeology, Columbia Basin, Crab Creek, Education, Hiking, History, Native Americans, Soldiers, Trails, Transportation, Washington
Tagged Artifacts, Cariboo Trail, Central Washington, Central Washington University, Chelan, Chief Moses, Coconuts, Crab Creek, DeLorme, Desert, Eastern Washington, Education, Fishing, Fort Okanagan, Fort Vancouver, Hawaii, Hiking, History, Horses, Hudsons Bay Company, Hugh Dunlop, Hutchinson Lake, Indians, Native Americans, Nature, Potholes, Roads, Rock Creek, Sam Hutchinson, Sandwich Islands, Spokane, The Dalles, Trails, Washington, Wenatchee
The wreck of the Cora Blake lies beneath the shallow waters of this Lake Whatcom bay.
I have one of the most beautiful commutes in the country, I’m pretty sure. My drive is around fifteen miles long, winding through precipitous hills clad in dark and overgrown forests of hemlock, Douglas fir and Bigleaf Maple. Most of the route follows the south shore of Lake Whatcom on a road that is thinly traveled. The drive I make is a relatively recent road, though.
Since American settlers first visited this lake in the mid-1800s, boats were the favored mode of transportation. Native Americans taught the earliest settlers how to build shovel-nosed canoes made of a single hollowed-out cedar log. Row boats followed, then sailboats. The first of the steam-powered boats was launched in the late 1800s, and it contributed its muscle to burgeoning industries of coal-mining and the lumber trade.
By the early 1900s several steamboats traveled the twelve-mile length of Lake Whatcom, visiting docks of settlers and nascent communities along the way. Other steamboats dragged barges loaded with coal or with train cars loaded with coal. Still others nudged rafts of huge logs toward several lumber and shake mills that dotted the perimeter of the north end of the lake. Continue reading
Posted in Archaeology, Bellingham, Computer, Disaster, Education, History, Lake Whatcom, Native Americans, Search Engine, Steamboats, Transportation, Travel, Washington
Tagged Bellingham, Bellingham Bay, Bloedel-Donovan Park, Blue Canyon, Bried, Canoes, Cedar, Coal Mining, Commuting, Cora Blake, Douglas Fir, Education, Elsinore, Fire, Geneva, Google Earth, Hemlock, History, Lake Whatcom, Lumber, Marguerite, Mike Anderson, Native Americans, Nature, Park, Sailboats, Settlers, Shipwreck, Shipyards, Silver Beach, Steamboats, Strawberry Bay, Strawberry Point, Trains, Transportation, Washington State
Taunton’s red brick substation from the middle of the abandoned Milwaukee Road main line, looking west in July, 2012.
In the 1940s the Milwaukee Road provided an important means of transportation in Central Washington. Gasoline rationing meant that much travel took place by train.Whether they were traveling out of military duty or seeking work on farms or at the burgeoning Manhattan Project south of Saddle Mountain, travelers might at some point be stranded in the middle of nowhere, waiting for a train.
I grew up near the red brick substation of Taunton, a minor stop on the line. It’s hard to imagine why strangers from Virginia or Ohio might find themselves waiting for a train at Taunton. Perhaps their train had to pull onto the siding to get out of the way of another, more important train. Nonetheless, in my intimate knowledge of the Taunton substation, I knew of several occasions when stranded travelers left evidence of their visit in the form of scrawled pencil lines on the red brick.
Travelers’ graffiti that remains of the walls of Taunton’s substation is usually found on bricks that would be in shaded areas in the heat of an afternoon. With no air conditioning, it would quickly become unbearably Continue reading
Posted in Archaeology, Art, Columbia Basin, Education, Family History, History, Illustration, Railroads, Saddle Mountain, Travel, Washington, World War II
Tagged Art, Artifacts, Central Washington, Copper, Culture, Dick Keeney, Eastern Washington, Education, Electricity, Fire, Gangs, Graffiti, History, Manhattan Project, Milwaukee Road, Ohio, Othello, Railroads, Second World War, Taunton, Thieves, Transportation, Virginia, Washington, World War II
From the Iron Age hill fort above Belfast the camera had difficulty capturing the city because of the smoke and fog generated by coal heating, industry and exhaust. This photograph was taken on one of the excursions with children from both sides of the divide in 1981.
In a previous post I mentioned the photograph I am posting today, which I rediscovered as I organized our storage cupboards. The climb to Napoleon’s Nose was a startling contrast to the neighborhoods the children grew up in. From their streets the children could see this hilltop towering above the city, but few had ever ventured this far before. The trail to the top led through meadows of bluebells, past ruined cottages and onto steep slopes of heather. It was only when you got above the smoke that you even realized how filthy the air in Belfast really was.
Posted in Archaeology, Belfast, Education, Hiking, Ireland, Iron Age, Northern Ireland, Peace and Reconciliation, Travel
Tagged Belfast, Education, Europe, Ireland, Iron Age
Although the rock I sat on was in direct sunlight, a brisk upriver wind kept me cool. The papers on my lap rattled in the breeze and the pages of the black-bound reference book chattered, but I was gazing out across a tiny inlet where the river’s water formed an eddy. It was the color and texture of desert-baked glass, slipping smoothly past me, drawn by the rush of the current beyond the boulder point. Across the river a sheer cliff of basalt loomed over me, soaring upward to a rugged crest far above.
It was the summer of 1977. I was studying Russian.
I developed this habit of disappearing when I had a day off work. I would wait for the heat to build until it was well over ninety degrees. Then I would borrow my dad’s gold 1970 Ford Maverick (a color that was marketed as Freudian Gilt) and I would head out. I kept the window cranked down for the natural air conditioning–the only type the car afforded. Higher speed meant better relief from the heat, but I was drawn to the old Corfu Road where I had to slow down. The dust that filtered through the open window was another price I paid.
I don’t know what drew me to this place the first time I went there. I had driven the entire length of the Corfu Road, turned left at Beverly and headed south through Sentinel Gap. I remember stopping on side roads that led to the river bank, but there the river was impounded by Wanapum Dam. Farther on I tried again, where the reservoir behind Priest Rapids Dam kept the current in check. I was just exploring.
I purposely avoided anyplace with people. I had my books and papers on the seat beside me with a couple of bottles of soda and some sandwiches wrapped in waxed paper. I was working on the complexity of the adjectival endings Russian uses, and I knew Continue reading
Posted in Archaeology, Books, Columbia Basin, Columbia River, Crab Creek, Death, Education, Family History, History, Native Americans, Washington
Tagged Aeroflot, Armenia, Austria, Beverly, British Columbia, California, Christianity, CIA, College, Columbia River, Corfu, Crab Creek, Culture, Czechoslovakia, Eastern Europe, Eastern Washington, Education, Europe, Family, Figure Two Ranch, Ford Maverick, France, History, Joel Palmer, Kiev, LA, Leningrad, Literature, Moscow, Native Americans, Nature, Novosibirsk, Prague, Priest Rapids Dam, Russia, Samarkand, Sentinel Gap, Siberia, Soviet Union, Spokane, Tashkent, Theater, Ural Mountains, Uzbekistan, Vilnius, Volga River, Wanapum Dam, Wanapum Indians, Washington, Washington State